Set &Send Boulder Comp

Boyan Kirov on the Stone boulder at Set and Send Boulder Comp in Sofia Bulgaria

Set & Send Boulder Comp is a novel climbing competition that emphasizes on routesetting. Set & Send took place on June 20, 2023, in Sofia, Bulgaria, a day before the start of the 2023 edition of the World Indoor Climbing Summit conference.

The kick-off evening for WICS 2023 featured a different kind of bouldering competition – Set&Send. With its was novel format the comp provided spotlight on routesetting as a major part of comps along with the athletes performance. Climbers and routesetters teamed up to work together on setting the problems on three signature Walltopia boulders featuring the latest panel designs from the company – the wooden boulder, the bamboo boulder and the stone boulder.

Set&Send Bamboo Boulder

Set&Send Plywood Boulder

Set&Send Stone Boulder

The boulders’ geometry is designed with simplicity and versatility in mind as a part of the modules of the harmonized system allowing any climbing gym featuring the same modules to replicate the problems (route setters copyright applies). The boulders’ visual appearance and finish was created by Margarita Kozhuharova – a long-time Walltopia climbing wall designer. With natural aesthetics approach in mind, the climbing wall design plays with veneers, dual texture and LED lights to create intriguing appeal and challenging climbing experience. There are three walls divided into 5 climbing sectors: Wooden Boulder with light and dark finish, Bamboo Boulder with tiger bamboo and light bamboo veneers and Stone Boulder with natural stone covering casted from real granite rocks. The silhouette lines continue on the flooring by Climbmat

Dual texture natural wood boulder climbing walls with bamboo veneer. Made by Walltopia for the Se&Send boulder comp.
Dual Texture Bamboo Boulder
Natural stone boulder climbing walls made of plywood panels with granite veneer. Made by Walltopia for the Se&Send boulder comp.
Natural Stone Boulder
Dual texture natural wood boulder climbing walls with tiger bamboo veneer. Made by Walltopia for the Se&Send boulder comp.
Dual Texture Bamboo Boulder

The Comp Format

Set&Send is a friendly commercial competition that aims to create a format that is attractive to watch and differs from the official
comps and to to provide spotlight on the routesetting. The event was meant to be easily understandable by the audience without the need to explain the
rules in advance as every zone or top provided a given amount of points that was easy to measure. The main goas was to promote a friendly atmosphere – for the competitors setting together as a team with the setter and climbing along as everyone takes turns on the same boulder, and for the spectators that gives an easily comparable result without the need to have a complex understanding of the scoring system

The comp featured:
• 3 Harmonized boulder walls divided into 5 climbing sections of similar size.
• 5 teams representing 5 climbing hold brands
• 5 routesetters x 2 routes each – one for males and one for females
• 10 pro climbers x 2 in each team – a male and female climber
• Every routesetter teams up with two climbers – male and female of their choice. They work together on the route-setting with the setter being the “captain”

Set&Send Routesetting

There were 5 teams consisting of a routesetter and a male and female climber, representing 5 different hold brands – Flathold, Kilter, Sup’R, Cheeta and HRT. The route setters received a 3D model of the boulder they would be setting on a couple of months prior to the competiton. They could make their own hold selection from the sets of the brand they represent that wold be produced specifically for the comp.

Team
HRT

ROUTESETTER:
Dirk Uhlig Germany

CLIMBERS:
Lucia Dörffel Germany
Boyan Kirov Bulgaria

Team
Kilter

ROUTESETTER:
Niklas Wiechmann, Germany

CLIMBERS:
André Neres, Portugal
Cloe Coscoy Professional climber, USA

Team Flathold

ROUTESETTER:
Pierre Broyer France

CLIMBERS:
Brooke Raboutou USA
Shawn Raboutou USA

Team
Cheeta

ROUTESETTER:
Tsukuru Hori
Japan

CLIMBERS:
Alex Totkova Bulgaria
Mateo Laporte France

Team
Sup'R

ROUTESETTER:
Gautier Supper
France

CLIMBERS:
Nika Potapova Ukraine
Slav Kirov Bulgaria

The setters had the morning and early afternoon to set and the climbers could help. Every team could forerun their own problems but not the other team’s problems. They could, however, watch them set and forerun, so the climbing was not onsight. While this setting concept was not the greatest idea in terms of power saving of the climbers, it contributed to the friendly athmosphere of everyone having a climbing session together.

Set&Send - The Comp

The comp started at sundown to make sure climbers didn’t have to perform in the summer heat. Lots were drawn for the sequence of climbing and the climbers of each team – male and female climbed along. The teams took turns on each problem with the “owner” of each boulder climbing last so that they don’t show the beta. Even though the boulders were not onsight and there was forerunning, the excellent setting and world top climbing skills offered unexpected outcome and diverse climbing!
The comp was a fun experience for both participants and the audience which didn’t stop cheering! The athletes gave a beyond-excellent performance with unexpected outcomes of the climb attempts and the upshot was not clear until the very last send! The final result is as follows:

Female climbers:

  1. Lucia Dorfell
  2. Brooke Raboutou
  3. Cloe Coscoy

Male climbers:

  1. Boyan Kirov
  2. Slav Kirov
  3. Shawn Raboutou

The awarding for the routesetting was separate and was decided by a gentlemen’s vote between all comp participants – setters and climbers. Each of them voted anonymously for their favorite problem in the following three categories:

Most creative problem (the one that was most difficult to read) – won by Dirk Uhlig – HRT holds
Most attractive problem (the one that was most attractive to watch) – won by Gautier Supper – Sup’R holds
Most aesthetic boulder (the best art piece on the walls) – also the most difficult to decide as apparently all problems looked amazing on the walls. Three setters split the prize – Tsukuru Hori (Cheeta holds), Dirk Uhlig (HRT) and Pierre Broyer (Flathold)

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